CO2 Lipids, part Two.

More on CO2 extracted lipids - fixed oils.

Kiwi Seed CO2 
Actinidia chinensis, organically grown in New Zealand, seeds CO2 total extracted in Germany.

Kiwi Fruit with Seeds

Clear, light, golden this fixed skincare oil is highest in alpha linolenic acid, (LNA) an essential fatty acid that needs to be consumed in the diet. It is a “super-unsaturated” omega-3 acid, normally found in flax seed oil and hemp oil, both very short-lived. This is a much longer-lived replacement for the two named, with a shelf life of over two years.

Because of its high levels of omega-3 acids, Kiwi Seed Oil is recommended for treating and balancing inflammatory conditions. It is a very light, “non-oily” oil that penetrates quickly and easily. It has a delightful light skin feel that soothes damaged skin cells and tissue. Several of us noticed that our skin felt smoother and softer immediately.

Kiwi Seed Oil’s high level of LNA helps the hair and skin retain moisture and prevents scaling, cracking or even (according to some sources) dandruff. It is an exceptional addition to any anti-aging skincare product.

It is recommended for use in facial serums, lip balms, eye creams and hair conditioners and masks. It is helpful for a wide range of skin types, including aging, dry, damaged and problem skin. Kiwi Seed oil is also recommended as a moisturizer for your hair, restoring vitality to dry, brittle and over processed hair.

Note: I have seen research on the alcohol-based Kiwi Seed Extract, showing topical application gave positive results in reducing excess sebum production and in preventing or decreasing acne lesions. I have not been able to find comparable research on the cold-pressed oil or the CO2 oil.

I have also seen many statements saying that Kiwi Seed oil is high in natural vitamin E and vitamin C. This may be true, I am trying to find out more. My instinct says that the vitamin C content is found in the fruit pulp, not the seeds. If the statements I see are correct, that would add even more value to this golden treasure trove of skincare benefits.

 
Pomegranate Seed CO2
Punica granatum, organic seeds grown in Turkey, extracted in Germany.

Pomegranate

A wonderful CO2-extracted light oil…quickly absorbed into the skin, leaving behind a very faint aroma reminiscent of melted baking chocolate. The producer recommends using it either undiluted by the drop, or using at up to 10% in a blend of other oils.

The producer also strongly urges that we try using the Pomegranate Seed Extract blended with Sea Buckthorn Berry Extract, that the two complement each other and have a truly synergistic effect in skin care blends.

The benefits of this delightful oil are limitless. It is beneficial to nearly all skin types; research is showing it to be helpful in fighting both skin and breast cancer in laboratory tests. (Search Pubmed for abstracts.) Pomegranate Oil has an extended shelf life because of its high level of anti-oxidants. It has also been shown to work as an anti-inflammatory agent, relieving muscular aches and pains as well as reducing swelling.

What makes Pomegranate Seed Oil so beneficial? First, it is high in antioxidants (such as polyphenol) which fight free radicals and promote skin regeneration. It is also high in lipids, including the rare pucinic acid, which help heal inflammation and reduce swelling.

It has been found to nourish and moisturize the skin, improving elasticity, reducing wrinkles and preventing aging. It has also been shown to help sunburned and ultraviolet damaged skin.

Evidence suggests that its calming and healing properties may aid treatment of numerous skin problems, including dry, irritated sensitive skin, and perhaps even eczema and psoriasis.  (We have nurse/aromatherapists reporting marvelous results in dealing with Psoriasis with either full strength Pomegranate CO2 or using the Pomegranate as a diluent and adding 2 to 4% of our distilled Cade Oil.)

 

We recommend using this Pomegranate extract either full strength, or at least at 15% in a blend of oils to reap its skincare benefits.

Is there any wonder that high-end cosmetic and skin care product designers are including Pomegranate Oil in their anti-aging creams and lotions?

Personal note: I have a lot of contact allergies…I’ll wear a ring, and by evening the back of that finger will be all red and itchy…I’ll wear a bracelet, and the inside of my wrist will break out in itches. I brought home the first sample we received of this wonderful pomegranate oil, and put just a drop on the itchies. Within minutes the itching stopped. By morning, the irritation and bumps and scratches were gone. This is amazing to me!

Please note: we tried several samples of cold pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil, and, in all honesty, could not bear the thought of using them on our skin. Tests on the back of our hands left a sticky, strongly-scented residue that none of us were comfortable using, let alone making available to you. Finally, we sampled this wonderful CO2 extracted light oil…quickly absorbed into the skin, leaving behind a very faint aroma reminiscent of melted baking chocolate.

Raspberry Seed Total CO2
Rubus idaeus, organically produced from seeds grown and dried in Chile, extracted in Germany.

Raspberry Seed CO2

Extraordinarily high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, especially the omega-6 linoleic acid, Raspberry Seed Oil is a superb anti-oxidant. It contains over 80% essential fatty acids. Much research is available online showing the healthcare benefits of internal use of Red Raspberry Seed oil. Its high level of vitamin E is known to be give it an important role in skin repair and conditioning. (Although this Red Raspberry Seed Oil is certainly produced for internal use, we are not licensed to produce or sell food supplements, so we recommend it for skin care and cosmetic applications.)

Red Raspberry Oil is known especially for its prevention of gingivitis, rashes, eczema, and other skin lesions. It is useful in skin creams, bath oils, and tooth paste. Raspberry seed oil is emollient, lubricating, conditioning, creates a lipid barrier providing protection to the skin and provides moisture retention for the skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties are greater than those of better known oils such as virgin Avocado Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Hazelnut Oil and Wheatgerm Oil. (Oomah, et al 2000)

Raspberry Seed Oil may act as a broad-spectrum UV-A and UV-B shield. Some reports show that it has an SPF of between 28 and 50, however more recent information indicates that the higher SPF values are against the UV A rays, mostly absorbed by the ozone layer. For the UV B rays (from which we need most protection), it probably had an SPF of up to 8. (I thank Gabriel Mojay for correcting earlier misinformation.) It has a long shelf life because of its high phospholipid content, and may increase the stability of other carrier oils when blended with them.

“Raspberry Seed Oil contains exceptionally high levels of alpha and gamma tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. This provides the skin with significant broad-spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.” —Oils of Nature, 2008, O’lenick, Steinberg, Kelin and LaVay

Rose Hip Seed CO2
Rosa Canina, seeds organically grown in Chile, organically extracted in Germany.

Contains: GLA, linolenic acids, oleic acid, palmitic acid.

Cold pressed Rose Hip Seed Oil has been the traditional aromatherapy recommendation for anti-aging skin care, and for scar healing.  Imagine our delight when we found that this much longer lived CO2 extract is at least as effective as the cold pressed oil, with a much better skin feel. 

Uses: dry, scaly, fissured skin; dull skin; eczema, psoriasis; over-pigmented skin; scars, (blend with Helichrysum italicum for fading old scars); prophylactic after burns or trauma or ulcerated veins and scars. Avoid with acne and oily or blemished skins. Use as 10% additive or neat for very dry, aging skin.

There is no better moisturizer for aging skin—or skin that doesn’t want to show signs of aging. I especially recommend a blend of Rose Hip Seed Oil and Carrot Seed Essential Oil for anti-aging effects. (I personally add a touch of Neroli and Frankincense to the mix.)

Research in Chile has shown that Rosehip Seed Oil is a tissue regenerator, helping to prevent signs of aging, reducing scar tissue, and minimizing wrinkles. For years we have recommended a blend of Corsican Helichrysum italicuum in Rose Hip Seed Oil for healing surgical and burn scars.

Madeleine Kerkhof recommends the use of Rose Hip Seed CO2 extract in blends for pain relief, for rheumatoid arthritis, and for any blend for varicose veins and/or phlebitis.

Sandalwood Seed CO2 Extract
Santalum Spicatum, ethically cultivated in Western Australia (Sandalwood Nut)

Sandalwood Nut

Sandalwood Seed Oil (Sandalwood Nut Oil) is a rich source of a rare oil component, ximenynic acid, which is a uniquely anti-inflammatory agent. Sandalwood Seed oil combines the anti-inflammatory properties of ximenynic acid with the nourishing emollient properties of oleic acid.

Some sources indicate that Sandalwood Seed oil is an effective treatment for both dry skin and aging skin since it both increases moisture levels and can improve protection against fine lines and wrinkles, while also stimulating blood circulation. It is said to improve skin elasticity and have an astringent effect, causing skin to look a bit tighter.

There are those who recommend adding Sandalwood Seed oil to blends for joint pain and inflammation.

We recommend adding from 5 to 10% to your favorite cream or lotion, to improve skin tone.

Our producer says, “The rare triple bond fatty acid, ximenynic acid, sets this oil apart from standard carrier oils. Ximenynic acid has been found to have a significant impact on the skin aging process as it increases microcirculation, reduces enlarged pores and distension and discoloration of the skin and firms the skin. Ximenynic acid has also been found to reduce the appearance of cellulitis, skin oiliness and hair loss.”

Research results:

Wisper Forestry Services of Australia studied a group of volunteers over a period of 90 days, all of whom were using products containing Sandalwood Nut Oil as the active ingredient. Study participants used Sandalwood Nut Oil on their skin 1–2 times per day for the duration of the study.

·         80% reported an increase in moisture and suppleness

·         72% of participants reported a decrease in fine lines and wrinkles

·         75% noticed firmer, tighter skin around their neck

·         65% reported less flakiness and dryness

·         60% saw reduced lines and puffiness around the eyes

This golden carrier oil is very quickly absorbed by the skin and has a very very faint nutty odor. 

Please don’t expect it to smell like Sandalwood Essential Oil, it is from the SEED, not the wood.

 

Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil CO2

Hippophae rhamnoides, organically grown dried seeds, CO2 extracted in Germany.

Sea Buckthorn Berries

Unlike our Sea Buckthorn Berry Pulp extract, this seed oil extract is a true fixed oil. Much thinner and easier to work with than the thick pulp extract, it is also much lighter in color, a clear orange-yellow rather than the thick, deep orange of the pulp expert.

Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil is high in linoleic acid and one of the highest oils in alpha linoleic acid.  CO2 extracted Sea Buckthorn Seed oil also contains very rare bioactive phytosterols. Phytosterols are essential components of the skin, responsible for structure formation. They are precursors of hormones with a number of positive effects on skin e.g. improvement of membrane stability, prevention of dehydration and supporting the skin physiology. Additionally, phytosterols stimulate collagen synthesis. Phytosterols are therefore ideal anti-aging components helping the skin revitalize.

Sea Buckthorn Oil, both seed and pulp, is recommended in sunscreen and after-sun products, because of its pain and stress relieving effects on the skin. Both products support the epithelization and the regeneration of the skin tissue and therefore heals sunburn quickly. 

[NOTE: Epithelialization is the formation of granulation tissue in an open wound which allows epithelial cells to migrate across the new tissue to form a barrier between the wound and the environment, thus speeding skin healing.]

Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil protects healthy skin, regenerates and heals damaged skin. Healing injured skin and supporting and soothing sensitive skin.

Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil contains a high concentration of palmitoleic acid and unsaponifiable components like phytosterols, tocopherols and carotenoids. Palmitoleic acid, rarely found in the plant kingdom, is a natural component of human skin and plays an important role in skin physiology.

Tocopherols with their antioxidative efficacy may reduce UV-induced skin damage when topically applied. The formation of UV-induced toxic peroxides on skin tissue is strongly suppressed by tocopherols. Skin membrane is supported, inflammation is reduced, and wound healing is accelerated.

Wheat Germ CO2 Total

Wheat Bran Oil

Triticum vulgare, extracted from organically produced wheat, Germany.

High in linoleic acid, this CO2 extract is an amazing addition to any emollient skincare blend. Wheat Bran Oil is said to have both emollient and humectant properties, to protect and smooth the skin, to alleviate itching, assist in cell regeneration and contribute to UV-protection. It is recommended for sensitive, dried, and stressed skin, in face crèmes, for body care and in hair care products.

I have seen wheat bran oil specifically recommended for protecting and treating chapped, dry skin, because it helps prevent trans epidermal water loss. Madeleine Kerkhof Hayes recommends adding Wheat Bran oil to any blend for treating or healing scars. (For scar healing, I would add to Rose Hip Seed Oil and, of course, add Helichrysum italicuum from Corsica, with a high percentage of scar healing Italidiones.)

There may well be other CO2 extracted Lipids.  For now, these are the ones I am familiar with, and work with. We may be adding to this list in the future.   See Part 1 of our CO2 Lipids Blog Series here.

See the first of a series on CO2 Aromatics here.